7 Common Fashion Brand Management Mistakes

Great Fashion Brands Sell A Promise, Much More Than Products

It’s easy to think of fashion, consumer or retail brands that have lost substantial brand value over the decades. A great example is Talbot’s, once a venerable specialty retail force that sold customers a promise of the well-bred New England costal life. They also happened to sell preppy clothes and accessories. Over decades and several owners, the brand has been diluted to a unremarkable chain of apparel stores, a mere shadow of it’s storied past.

Great brands sell a relatable promise, values and even fantasies at an accepted value/price relationship. Products are number one, but it so much more than product. If you can’t identify and express this “magic quotient” in your fashion or retail brand, you have a serious problem. This is a big part of the “why me?” of a brand.

The “magic” is often so intangible that owners, managers, finance, merchandisers and even creative staff don’t get it. They find themselves stewards of a brand without the know-how to take it forward, without losing it’s soul. They collectively tinker with the recipe, ending up with a thin soup. Their individual actions are often random and lack a singular vision.

7 Common Fashion Brand Management Mistakes

Consumer goods, especially apparel, home and footwear markets are brutally competitive today. Brand relevance and management has never been more critical in these fashion businesses. Here are 7 common fashion brand management mistakes:

  • The brand doesn’t have a clearly understood brand promise that the whole organization works from.
  • The company targets the wrong persona for the brand.
  • The products aren’t compelling and/or full of mixed messages. They extend the brand into new categories without a shepherd with a consistent vision.
  • Companies have the wrong people in key positions. Creative directors are often the brand visionary and steward for brand integrity across the organization. Hiring a poor creative leader can have disastrous results. A great creative director can get the best out of an average design and marketing team. They have to be clear , motivational leaders and able to stand up to equally senior employees in the company.
  • Companies sometimes overly-empower newly-minted designers, assuming they innately know what customers want. Experience does matter.
  • Design, merchandising and sales teams continue to repeat the same products without evolving the products for modern needs and relevance. They may be blind to demographic and fashion trends that affect the brand. Some insiders resist change.
  • Sometimes management outsources brand reinvention to branding and marketing agencies without the experience or market knowledge to make sense of the real path to growth.

Sorel,  A Perfect Case Study in Brand Evolution

Whether a brand is two, five years or many decades old, it’s value and brand promise has to be continually monitored for current relevance. It’s difficult to turn around a flagging brand, not impossible, when things have gone too far. I perfect case study is Sorel of Ontario, Canada.

Sorel was a men’s and women’s winter boot brand owned by Kaufman Rubber Company started in 1962 in Canada. At one point, they were one of the largest suppliers of waterproof “outdoor” boots in the world.

In 2000, the brand was bought out of bankruptcy for $8 million by Columbia Sportswear, of Beaverton, OR. The line plodded along until 2008, when they decided to revamp the brand. Sorel is now a big growth story at Columbia and was projected to do $200M in 2015 sales. (sales were $60M in 2009).

Sorel president Mark Nenow is quoted as saying to Bloomberg… “We’re going to make it about style, we’re going to make it about premium, we’re going to make it about design, we’re going to make it impossible to ignore.” He also said it is going to be about women, women, women.”  They started to make more feminine boot styles aimed at urban, fashion conscious women. The strategy upped the fashion ante, within the framework of brand heritage. Design and marketing delivered a consistent message. Sales grew rapidly.

They tried a pop-up shop in Manhattan in December of 2014 and it was a hit. It became their first permanent store. They recently opened a store in Burlington, MA.

This store stopped me in my tracks. It put Sorel in a whole new light for me, from “that boot brand” to “I gotta have it”.  They didn’t take the expected route of an “outdoor” store with winter and mountain references. It has a nod to heritage with their polar bear logo in a fun wall patchwork, but the brand experience is a hip, fashion store with rustic contemporary displays and lighting.

They now design a complementary  collection of innovative, “active, boot-inspired” sandals and booties that would make any fashion lover swoon, whatever the season. The newborns have the DNA of the traditional classic boots. They’re sexy, edgy and rugged.

I think about the marketing journey I travelled to see the brand as fashion, instead of functional winter boots. Fashion credibility started by seeing the boots at Nordstrom, but experiencing their store and the unique shoe collection changed my perception entirely. I can’t say I saw anything on social or other media. It was the store and the shoes that changed everything.

Sorel is the perfect example of a heritage fashion brand with a modern evolution. Genius!

 

Some other posts you might enjoy:

Are The Sporting Goods & Outdoor Industries in a Death Spiral

The New Definition of Athletic Apparel

Decoding Millennial Shopping Traits & Habits

The Dix & Pond Blog, by Stephanie Bernier is the blog of  Dix & Pond Consulting, a Boston-based, company that consults on trends, creative direction, brand experience, business strategy, product development and merchandising. Clients include retailers, apparel, footwear & consumer companies.  CONTACT US TODAY! 

Thank you for liking and sharing this, if you enjoyed the post! 

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Are Sporting Goods & Outdoor in a Death Spiral?

Vestis Retail Group Files for Bankruptcy

Another one bites the dust. The Vestis Retail Group, owner of  Eastern Mountain Sports, Sport Chalet and Bob’s Stores of Meriden, CT is filing for bankruptcy. This follows the high-profile bankruptcy filing of Sports Authority of Englewood, CO and the recent closure of Boston-based City Sports stores. Prediction, the sporting goods graveyard will have more big-name corpses by year-end.

I also believe the outdoor, wood beam and hunter green team, Cabela’s, Bass Pro ShopsL.L. Bean and Dick’s Sporting Goods are seriously challenged these days. Because of the uniformity and proliferation of these outdoor/active mega stores, they are no longer the hot destination stores they once were. They’re surely feeling competitive headwinds from many directions. Dick’s will benefit from Sports Authority closures, but you can’t really say you’re a good student, just because the class average goes down.

In my view, the outdoor and sporting goods channels have reached saturation point and every niche has a ceiling. They will have to get smaller and find serious points of differentiation to thrive.

They also have an aging demographic and won’t have the same appeal to Millennials. 45% of this important demographic belong to a minority group (according to the US Census) unlike the Boomers and Generation X before them. The Millennial generation has more varied taste and less money to spend on apparel and accessories.

Apparel on clearance at EMS.

Apparel on clearance at EMS

What’s Happening in The Sporting Goods Channel?

Why is this happening in the sporting goods channel when sneakers are red-hot and athletic apparel has been biggest bright spot in apparel for almost a decade?

1. Amazon is an elephant in the room. According to a Slice Intelligence survey of 3.5 million consumers Amazon had a 43% share of all online sales last November and December. Their enormous selection, comparative deals, fast speed and free shipping are hard to compete with. According to Cowen & Co They are also on track to become the largest seller of apparel in the US, probably beating Macy’s by next year.

2. Sporting goods stores are no longer a key destination for women to buy athletic apparel. As the “athleisure trend” grew, so did the sources women and men have to buy these looks. Lululemon and Under Armour were the pioneers that challenged the category with fashion, quality and higher prices. Now the competition is fierce with traditional retailers increasing their assortments, specialty retailers like Athleta, brand-owned stores, online specialists and many wholesalers adding active to their assortments. Since women buy 80% of all consumer purchases, there is lot less traffic in sporting goods stores.

3. “Athletic inspired”, lifestyle apparel is far more important than performance apparel. The big expansion of active is wearing these clothes out of the gym. Many sporting goods stores and some apparel brands seem to think it is primarily about functionality and sweat reduction, not fashion and compelling design. Frequently, their lifestyle apparel offering is only the classic “outdoor” brands.

Many sporting goods stores devote enormous square footage to apparel and they generally don’t have the fashion chops to compete in a brutally competitive, rapidly changing apparel sector. Who needs another purple mock half-zip?

4. Sporting goods stores used to be the preferred place to buy sneakers. Performance sneakers,” sport-inspired” vulcanized cousins and fashion variations are the trending casual footwear today. Sporting goods retailers have not kept up with sneaker specialists and have treated the category as important as golf equipment. Women can buy “athletic-inspired” footwear from any of their favorite retailers from Forever 21 to Nordstrom today.

5. Youth participation is down trending for many sports. See this chart from Sports Business Journal in August 2015. There are many things going on here from the cost participation, fear of injuries, lack of interest, over specialization in one sport, etc. The drop in participation naturally creates less demand for equipment and related apparel:Youth sports participation rates.

What Should Brands do to Survive in This Climate?

What is an apparel, footwear brand or store to do in this highly competitive market? It demands creating real brand value, innovation, differentiation, targeting and understanding your competitive advantage in the market.

Competing just on price is a fool’s game. Fashion is emotionally driven by fantasy, hope or self-fulfillment, not just technical features or price. Wearable tech optimists, be warned.

Consumers want simple and exciting shopping experiences from brick and mortar or online stores. It’s time for the sporting goods and outdoor retailers to reimagine their stores for today, with nothing being off-the-table. Well conceived and executed brand experiences will turn this negative outlook positive.

 

You might enjoy these previous posts:

The New Definition of Athletic Apparel

Sports Authority Teeters on Bankruptcy- See The Reasons

Decoding  Millennial Shopping Traits & Habits

 

The Dix & Pond Blog is the blog of  Dix & Pond Consulting,  a Boston-based, company that consults on trends and creative direction, brand experience, business strategy, product development, merchandising and provides executive coaching for retail, apparel, footwear & consumer companies.  CONTACT US TODAY! 

Thank you for liking and sharing this, if you enjoyed the post! 

Color Trends 2016/2017 Going Green

The green color family is trending for spring 2016/17.

The green color family is trending for spring 2016/17.

It’s time for change. Green is the color of renewal and rebirth. Going green is a huge fashion color trend for spring 2016/2017. Especially alluring is lady-like, retro pistachio, my vote for color of the season. Also important are rich emerald, olive, dried basil and deep-woods green.

Olives are highly versatile classic neutrals. They are important for safari and military inspired looks and make perfect foils for a range of colors. They pair well with reds, yellows, oranges, pinks, blues and  purples. Olives looks especially sophisticated with the fashionable ultra-pales.

The olives will be key anchors for bottoms, outerwear, tops, shoes and bags. Emerald and pistachio sing on active, tops, career, dresses, accessories, swim and lingerie.

The Dix & Pond Blog is the blog of  Dix & Pond Consulting,  a Boston-based, company that consults on trend and creative direction, brand experience and business strategy, product development, merchandising and provides executive coaching for retail, apparel, footwear & consumer products companies.  CONTACT US TODAY!  or call 617.733.7411

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